The exuberance of Africa colors the fabrics of Lisou

With Tanzania in her heart, designer Rene Macdonald creates collections with fabrics with exclusive designs, designed for those who love bold prints.

Don’t betray your origins, rather continuously nurture them as an intrinsic part of your DNA, without ever forgetting to place them in your adopted country: Tanzania and England are the alchemical balance that shapes the personality of Rene Macdonald and his brand Lisou. The name belongs to the intimate sphere of childhood memories, when her mother, who sewed clothes, called her with the pet name Lisou which became a collection in 2018. Initially focused on silk, which naturally enhances the colors, to then expand, from season to season, to other fabrics. With a secret dream for the designer, that of consolidating Lisou as a lifestyle brand, loved by women and men, who share with Rene the values ​​of slow fashion through limited quantity production, natural fabrics, zero impact processes.

When did Lisou make his debut?
We started in 2018 and focused on silk shirts before adding other categories. It’s important to start well with one product and then expand the collection. In five years we have added skirts, dresses, coats and accessories made with clothing waste because we want to waste as little as possible. So hair accessories, Christmas decorations, in short, every product that allows us to reuse fabrics. We were surprised by how successful they were.

So is it becoming a lifestyle brand?
Not yet, but it’s my dream. I design everything myself starting from the prints and this benefits different types of products. In the future we also want to think about men’s clothing. We have noticed with pleasure that some men have ordered our proposals. For example, the famous American presenter and actor Billy Porter has already worn some of our garments and a tailor-made suit that he used for the cover of his latest single.

So do you think “genderless” when preparing collections?
I think anyone might like my style, I want to please everyone.

How did you experience the challenge of starting your own brand?
I didn’t see it as a challenge because I was convinced that I wanted to do something that represented me. It’s part of my character to get involved, commit myself, try to learn as much as possible and then immerse myself in the work. I have no specific training, having worked in fashion as a stylist, but this is the first time I have committed myself to creating something of my own. Not having a specific background was an advantage because I wasn’t scared. If you have training you must stick to certain rules. The word impossible does not exist for me, as I believe that there is always a way to succeed in one’s intentions. Of course, not everything is easy in fashion.

Where do you produce?
Mostly in Portugal, sometimes in Poland, very little in the UK because due to Brexit it has become difficult to produce here and in any case the prices would have tripled. However, I have it produced in Europe and with suppliers I can easily visit. I am aware that moving to Vietnam or Cambodia would be more convenient, but proximity to the supply chain is essential for quality control.

However, do you design the fabrics yourself?
It all starts with drawing, I really like drawing, I use a lot of pens and I choose the supplier depending on the type of fabric I need. At the moment I work mostly with silk, although every season I introduce other fabrics such as jacquard, jersey, wool. But the prints are exclusive and the shades carefully chosen. The issue of colors is delicate, for example in the UK the customer must be encouraged to purchase the colour. After the pandemic, however, there is a greater desire for sparkling colours and joy.
In fact, at the most blasé parties with the protagonists of the Royal Family, at Ascot events and Polo tournaments, it actually seems that colours, flowers, floral prints and patterns are much loved in the dress codes even by young women of the British upper class.

Did you happen to dress any famous ones at these events, testimonials “in spite of yourself” of the Lisou style?
We have dressed many extraordinary women. But it is not essential that they are celebrities, every customer is important and special to us. Last year at Ascot I met two ladies with my bosses and that made me happy. And then, I can’t name him, but I also dressed a member of the Royal Family.

Who is Lisou’s typical customer?
Someone who doesn’t want to hide, self confident, a person who enters a room and wants to be noticed. Our clientele is very large, ranging from 16/18 years old and up. In the past, young people did not shop in the same places as older people, today this is no longer the case, all generations shop in the same places. In the USA I sell at Norstrom and Sax, in Europe through Zalando and then in some niche boutiques and before the pandemic also in a boutique in Milan.

What is the item that best represents and identifies your style?
The jacquard silk dress, I would say, because it is courageous and different, it has a strong DNA, it is recognisable.

How does fashion react towards Black Designers?
I feel at ease. It is undeniable that there is currently a favorable trend towards supporting black designers, also in the wake of the continuous attention and sensitivity raised towards the Black Lives Matter movement.

How much of your land is there in the collections?
Lisou is the nickname my mother called me and I have maintained very strong ties with my family and my land. The brand is a tribute to my mother, who was also my inspiration and muse. However, I am a Tanzanian who has lived in London for many years now. The influence of my country is visible in the colors and style in general, because a lot is inspired by how my mother dressed. But there are also the flashes and glitters of Africa which in the collections translate into gold, silver and sequins.

Will there be new materials and garments in the future?
There will be more prints, more dresses with clean silhouettes, cotton and silk, raincoats for autumn.
We certainly want to expand the collections in the future.